Still Wandering

The West Highland Way (WHW) is Scotland’s most popular long-distance hiking trail, stretching approximately 154 km (96 miles) from Milngavie, just north of Glasgow, to Fort William in the Highlands. Established in 1980, the route takes hikers through a remarkable variety of landscapes: rolling Lowland farmland, serene lochsides, rugged moorlands, and the towering peaks of the Scottish Highlands. Along the way, I tackled it in late May and encountered historic villages, old stone bridges, bothies, and a vibrant hiking community. Typically completed in 5–10 days (I did it in 8), the trail offers both a physical challenge and a chance to experience Scotland’s dramatic scenery, moody weather, and the camaraderie of fellow hikers.

Length

154 km (96 miles)

I ended up recording 156.5 km on my watch:

• Day 1 – 22 km (13.7 miles) – Milngavie to Drymen Forest
• Day 2 – 18 km (11.3 miles) – Drymen Forest to Sallochy Campsite
• Day 3 – 24.5 km (15.2 miles) – Sallochy to Doune Brye Bothy
• Day 4 – 22.5 km (14 miles) – Doune Brye Bothy to Tyndrum
• Day 5 – 15.5 km (9.6 miles) – Tyndrum to Inveroran
• Day 6 – 15 km (9.3 miles) – Inveroran to Kingshouse
• Day 7 – 15 km (9.3 miles) – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
• Day 8 – 24 km (14.9 miles) – Kinlochleven to Fort William

Logistics

Take a train to Milngavie (I took one from Glasgow). The start of the West Highland Way is nearby the train station.

Safety

I felt very safe walking alone and there were also many people on the route too. The route is well signposted, but I also had downloaded the route on AllTrails just in case.

Season

Many people told me May is the best month as there are less midges and rain. Any time between March and September are popular though (Spring and Summer in Scotland). I did it in late May and the midges were already starting, but manageable.

Food and Water

Since the hike passes towns and villages, food can be purchased almost everyday at supermarkets. I ate at a few restaurants and pubs along the way too. There are also several places to fill up water bottles, including streams. It depends what your budget is really.

Day 1 – Milngavie to Drymen Forest (22km / 13.7 miles)

The first day of the West Highland Way began with a mix of nerves and anticipation. It was my first long-distance hike, and my first time hiking alone. I’d bought a brand-new backpack for the trip and hadn’t even tested it before setting out – an impulsive choice, but I was eager to start.

I chose the route after watching RamonaRoams on YouTube. Her video made the trail look both challenging and beautiful, and I wanted to see it for myself. The weather forecast wasn’t encouraging, with rain expected throughout the day, but when I caught the train from Glasgow to Milngavie, the skies unexpectedly cleared. It felt like a small piece of luck to begin with.

The First Steps

At the start of the trail in Milngavie, I took a photo of the stone obelisk marking the beginning of the West Highland Way. I didn’t take a selfie – being on my own, I felt a little self-conscious asking anyone.

The trail began through what looked like a city park, then gradually opened up into stretches of farmland and quiet countryside paths. A few light showers came and went, but nothing too bad.

As I walked, I started to notice the rhythm of hiking among others. You pass someone, exchange a brief hello, then a while later they pass you back. It becomes an easy, wordless way of keeping track of time.

A Pause at Turnip the Beet

Around midday, I stopped at a small café called Turnip the Beet. It was warm, welcoming, and filled with other hikers drying their jackets and recharging their phones. I ordered a black coffee and sat by the window as the rain came down again outside.

It was the first time I really felt part of the trail community – everyone was following the same route, moving at their own pace but sharing the same small moments along the way.

Arriving in Drymen

After the rain eased, I continued on through open farmland toward Drymen. I reached the outskirts of town in the late afternoon and found a bench to rest on while eating the sandwich I’d packed earlier.

A Swiss hiker joined me there, and we started talking about where to camp for the night. We both planned to wild camp, and he mentioned a nearby forest that sounded like a good option. I decided to follow.

Not long after we arrived, a Austrian hiker and another person joined us, and soon we had a small, informal campsite tucked among the trees.

First Encounter with Midges

That evening was my first real introduction to midges. They weren’t terrible, but enough to be irritating – tiny insects that find any bit of uncovered skin. I didn’t have a midge net yet, so I used my buff to cover my face and quickly retreated into my tent.

We shared a few hiking stories before everyone turned in for the night. The sound of rain returned as I lay in my sleeping bag, tired but content. The first day had been a mix of learning, small challenges, and quiet moments that set the tone for what was ahead.

Day One total: ~22 km (13.7 miles)

Time: Around 4.5 hours including breaks

Day 2 – Drymen Forest to Sallochy Campsite (18 km / 11.2 miles)

The day began with midges. They were waiting as soon as I unzipped my tent, a small cloud ready to greet me. I made a quick breakfast of oats, packed up my gear as fast as possible, and set off down the trail.

My body still hadn’t adjusted to the daily mileage. My legs were heavy, and two large blisters had already formed on my inner heels. It was one of those mornings where every step felt like a small test of patience.

Skipping Conic Hill

The path out of Drymen leads toward Conic Hill, one of the most iconic viewpoints on the West Highland Way. But feeling drained and sore, I decided to skip the climb and take the alternate route straight to Balmaha. It was a practical choice – not the most scenic one, but it saved my feet for another day.

A Break in Balmaha

By the time I reached Balmaha, about halfway through the day’s distance, I was ready for a proper break. I stopped at St Mocha Café, a well-known rest point for hikers, and ordered a vegan hot chocolate with whipped cream. I sat outside in a rare patch of sunshine – until, in typical Scottish fashion, it started pouring five minutes later.

I moved inside and lingered for a while, charging my phone and waiting for the rain to pass. That pause, warm drink in hand, helped me reset for the next stretch.

Along the Shores of Loch Lomond

From Balmaha, the trail followed the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. It wound through stretches of forest, small pebbled beaches, and short sections of road. The loch appeared and disappeared through the trees, the light shifting constantly between calm and storm.

There were signs along the way marking the Camping Management Zone, where wild camping is restricted. Luckily, I had already booked a pitch at Sallochy Campsite the night before.

Sallochy Campsite

I reached Sallochy in the late afternoon after about 23 km of walking. The site was quiet – just a few other hikers scattered among the designated pitches. There are only three spaces reserved for West Highland Way walkers, but not all were occupied, so it felt peaceful.

The facilities were basic: toilets, a sink, and a few benches without shelter. The staff were friendly, and I bought a midge net for £7 – a bit overpriced but needed.

That evening, I made instant noodles and sat by the loch, watching the water turn dark as the rain clouds came in again. The quiet was welcome after a day of steady, solitary hiking.

During the night, heavy rain returned and didn’t let up for hours. From inside my tent, reading my Kindle and listening to the downpour, it felt oddly comforting to be tucked away and dry.

Day Two total: ~18 km (11.2miles)

Time: Around 4.5 hours including breaks

Day 3 – Sallochy to Doune Brye Bothy (24.5 km / 15.2 miles)

I woke up at Sallochy Campsite to persistent, pouring rain. Packing up a wet tent is always slow work, but I was glad I had plastic bags to keep the damp tent separate from the rest of my pack. The only shelter at the campsite was a small roof over the sink, so a few hikers and I gathered there in our rain gear, waiting to see if the weather would let up. It didn’t.

While waiting, I met a French hiker who offered me some water purification tablets (which I didn’t end up using) and a pair of Dutch hikers walking the opposite direction. They were nearing the end of their hike and were handing out extra food. Once they left, a few of us remained under the shelter, waiting. Eventually, after another hiker stepped into the rain, I decided to follow.

Misty Loch Lomond

The trail that morning was misty and atmospheric, with Loch Lomond barely visible through the fog. Despite the rain, it looked stunning. At this stage, I fell in step with a German hiker and a Dutch hiker heading the same way. They’d met on the ferry to the UK from Europe.

We stopped at a small convenience store where I bought a plastic rain poncho and Irn-Bru hard-boiled sweets. We continued walking near each other through the rain, chatting occasionally, but mostly keeping pace. The presence of other hikers made the technical, slippery trail a bit easier to manage – watching their feet helped me avoid the mud, rocks, and small stream crossings along Loch Lomond’s edge.

Inversnaid Hotel

Our main goal was to reach the Inversnaid Hotel for lunch as it was the closest shelter on the way. The trail along this section was muddy, technical, and required concentration due to tree roots and rocks – stepping wrong could have meant slipping and twisting an ankle. By the time we arrived, most of the food had sold out. We managed a beer and a piece of cake, then continued along the eastern side of Loch Lomond.

Arrival at Doune Byre Bothy

Eventually, my feet were so sore that seeing Doune Byre Bothy was a relief. The other two hikers were continuing to a campsite 5 km further along, so I was alone again. The rain had stopped, and the sun even came out briefly. I put my wet socks and shoes on the fence to dry.

The bothy was smoky inside and very basic, but it had enough for a night’s stay. I set up my sleeping area on a wooden platform and hung wet clothes on the dry lines. A few hikers came in and said hello, but the most memorable interaction was with two women who seemed concerned I was staying there alone. I didn’t see the issue – it felt safe enough.

I cooked tomato pasta on my stove and settled in for the night.

An Enthusiastic Visitor

The night was not entirely peaceful. A very energetic mouse ran across the wooden platform, trying to explore my bags. I banged on the wooden platform to deter it, but it kept returning. Around 1 a.m., I threw a handful of peanuts across the bothy, which seemed to distract it. After that, I didn’t hear from the mouse again.

Eventually, I fell asleep listening to the rain outside, finally feeling warm, dry, and safe.

Day Three total: ~24.5 km (15.2 miles)

Time: ~7 hours including breaks

Day 4 – Doune Brye Bothy to Tyndrum (22.5 km / 14 miles)

I woke up in the Doune Byre Bothy to light drizzle and thick mist. The air was cool and quiet, and the trail ahead looked mysterious and peaceful. After packing up, I walked about 5 km, passing the Beinglas campsite where many other hikers had stayed the night before. I’d heard about the swarms of midges they had experienced, but thankfully, there were none in the bothy.

Along the way, I spotted a frog in the orchid, a small moment of calm in the misty morning. The walk was peaceful, with the sound of rushing water echoing through the trees.

Changing Scenery

The goal for the day was Tyndrum. As I continued, the landscape gradually changed from loch side views into tree plantations and farmlands, with lots of young saplings and areas being cut for fresh forest growth. The rain returned and was relentless for much of the day keeping my shoes wet and creating new blisters.

Reconnecting with Fellow Hikers

At some stage the Swiss hiker from a previous day caught up with me and mentioned how he’d stayed in the Rowchoish bothy on the second night instead of the Sallochy campsite. Many people had joined, sheltering from the rain and it sounded like a great cozy evening. Eventually, he left me and I happened to catch up with the German and Dutch hikers from the previous day. It turned out that we all planned to stay at the same campsite in Tyndrum – By The Way Hostel & Campsite, so we walked together through the rain. The trail passed farmland, with sheep and tiny lambs scattered across the fields. Despite the wet weather, walking with company made the time pass more easily.

Arriving in Tyndrum

When we reached the campsite, the owner advised against staying there in tents – heavy rain had been forecast, and the site was prone to flooding. I decided to book a pod, while the other two shared one between them. The pod was comfortable, with a bed, a couch, kettle and a TV. I showered, then spent some time relaxing inside, reading my Kindle and watching a bit of UK television. One perk of the campsite was a huge dry room which had a big dehumidifier. Finally my wet shoes and socks could dry! By the evening, the room was full of hiker’s wet gear and the smelt super manky.

The other two hikers and I decided to head into town for dinner and ended the evening playing pool, a welcome bit of social time on a solo trip.

Exploring Tyndrum

Tyndrum itself was very scenic and seemed busier than expected, with tourists who were not on the West Highland Way. The convenience store called the Green Welly Shop proved to be very convenient to stock up on food for the next few days – and, of course, I grabbed a bottle of Irn-Bru, because why not?

Day Four total: ~22.5 km (14 miles)

Time: ~5.5 hours including stops

Day 5 – Tyndrum to Inveroran (15.5 km / 9.6 miles)

Day five began with light rain once again. I said goodbye to the Dutch hiker, who was aiming to cover 30 km that day, and set off on my own. Before long, I caught up with the German hiker, and we ended up walking together for most of the day.

Into the Highlands

The landscape changed quickly and dramatically – the trail opened up into the true Scottish Highlands, and it was absolutely stunning. Rolling hills stretched in every direction, dotted with small lochs and crossed by beautiful old stone bridges. Even with the rain, it felt like walking through a postcard.

The stage was short, about 15.5 km, so we reached the Inveroran Hotel by early afternoon. Just as we arrived, the rain became heavy, and soon every hiker passing by ducked into the restaurant to warm up and dry off.

A Cozy Haven

The hotel restaurant turned out to be one of my favourites on the whole trail. It had a cozy, welcoming atmosphere – the kind of place that feels even warmer when it’s grey and wet outside. One of the staff members mentioned that most hikers wild camp across the road from the hotel, so once the rain eased, I set up my tent there and took a short break while the skies briefly cleared.

Of course, the rain soon returned, and everyone headed back inside the restaurant. There I met a few hikers I had seen on and off over the past few days but hadn’t yet spoken to. It turned out that nearly everyone at the table spoke German – three German couples and the German hiker I’d walked with – so it felt like I had suddenly been transported to Germany.

We sat together for a long while, chatting and sharing stories from the trail. I ordered vegan haggis and a beer, which felt like a fitting dinner for such a rainy Scottish evening.

A Warm Evening

Later, I returned to my tent just across the road. The rain had settled into a soft drizzle, and it was quiet except for the distant sound of the wind through the glen. I fell asleep warm, full, and content.

It struck me that evening that the West Highland Way wasn’t just a solo hike – it was also a kind of social journey. Each day brought familiar faces, new stories, and the comforting sense of community that forms along the trail.

Day Five total: ~15.5 km (9.6 miles)

Time: ~4 hours

Day 6 – Inveroran to Kingshouse (15km / 9.3 miles)

Day six was, without question, the most spectacular day of the entire trip. It was a shorter stage, only about 15 km, but it took me through the most breathtaking Highland and moorland scenery I’d seen so far. The landscape was wide open and wild – no houses, no buildings, just endless rolling hills and sky.

The weather was mostly dry, with a mix of sun and clouds. After so many wet days, it felt like a gift to walk without constant rain. The views seemed to stretch forever, with the mountains in the distance shifting shades of green and grey as clouds drifted by. Along the way, I crossed several beautiful stone bridges and even spotted sundews, tiny carnivorous plants.

Towards Glencoe

By midday, I was getting hungry and wanted a warm drink as the weather began to turn again, I took a small detour towards Glencoe Mountain Resort, near Kingshouse. The resort had a canteen-style restaurant where you ordered at the counter and received your food on a tray – simple, but perfect. I had soup and bread, warm and hearty after the breezy walk.

Not long after we sat down, the sky opened up and the rain poured down. One by one, hikers from the previous day arrived, seeking shelter. Soon, our table had turned into a cheerful reunion from Inveroran, everyone chatting away while watching downhill cyclists.

Camping at Kingshouse

When the rain finally eased, we all shouldered our packs and made our way toward Kingshouse, where wild camping is popular nearby. The first area we checked looked a bit flooded, but I noticed a small cluster of tents under a stand of trees close to the hotel. and that’s where we set up camp.

Kingshouse is a very hiker-friendly stop on the West Highland Way, with public showers and toilets available even for campers. After showering, I made some instant noodles, then returned to my tent as the evening settled over the glen.

It struck me again that this hike had become a rhythm: each day we all scattered across the trail, walking at our own pace, and each evening we somehow found one another again.

Day Six total: ~15 km (9 miles)

Time: ~3.5 hours

Day 7 – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (15 km / 9.3 miles)

Day seven started with lovely weather, perfect for tackling the Devil’s Staircase. The German hiker and I decided to walk together; our pace was very similar, and it was nice to have company – and someone to grumble with when the climb got tough.

The Highlands opened up before us, revealing tall, dramatic peaks bathed in sunlight. The view of the mountain range was stunning. We approached the Devil’s Staircase, read the historical information on the sign, and noticed many familiar faces from the previous days on the same path. Surprisingly, the climb itself was manageable and less intimidating than its reputation suggested.

Along the way, I spotted a pinguicula, a flowering plant with a small purple bloom, adding a delicate touch to the rugged landscape. The hills were a vivid green, and the combination of sun, peaks, and open Highlands made the walk memorable.

Approaching Kinlochleven

Eventually, we reached Kinlochleven, a small industrial town with campsites that many of the German hikers had already booked pods at. As usual, we all gathered at one of the pubs having burgers and conversation. Afterwards, we popped into the local supermarket to stock up on supplies for our last evening – I grabbed another Irn-Bru for good measure.

Finding a Wild Camp

After leaving the town, we continued along the West Highland Way into the forest to find a wild camping spot. We chose a level area safe from flooding, as heavy rain was forecast for the night.

I set up my tent and placed my Irn-Bru outside as a small reward and a treat for breakfast (lol) the next morning. Unfortunately, a small mishap with my oats – the metal-top pot had partially opened inside the tent – created an unexpected problem.

A Noisy Visitor

Around 2:30 a.m., a mouse discovered the oats and chewed a hole in my tent to get at them. The sudden noise gave me a fright, and I scrambled in the dark to find my tent repair kit. With the help of my head torch, I glued a patch over the hole and secured the oats in a sealed bag.

After that, I finally managed to go back to sleep, listening to the rain pouring down outside. It was a miserable night, but at least the tent held, and the oats were safe for the morning.

Day Seven total: ~15 km (9.3 miles)

Time: ~4h hours including stops

Day 8 – Kinlochleven to Fort William (24 km / 14.9 miles)

The last day of the West Highland Way began in rain and wind. Packing up my wet tent was miserable, but the Irn-Bru from the day before gave me a small boost of energy. I put on my plastic poncho and full rain gear, bracing for a long, soggy day. My shoes were soaked again, and every step squelched through puddles and mud.

Battling the Elements

The weather was relentless. Rain came from all directions, sometimes stinging my face, while strong gusts of wind alternated with brief lulls. My hands were cold, red, and almost swollen – I didn’t have waterproof gloves, so I wrapped them in my poncho to warm them. At times, the wind would briefly dry my jacket and pants, a small relief before the next downpour hit.

Apparently, Scotland has hundreds of words for different types of rain, and I think I experienced most of them that day.

Highland Views and Challenges

Despite the miserable weather, the Highlands remained breathtaking. Ben Nevis, Scotland’s highest mountain, loomed in the distance, shrouded in mist. The day felt both long and short at the same time: trudging through constant rain, searching for any sheltered spot – though even ruins offered no roof – made progress slow, yet the end always seemed closer in sight.

Descending a road into Glen Nevis was hard on the knees, but seeing Fort William in the distance gave a mix of relief and melancholy. The hike was almost over, and my feet were sore, but the sense of accomplishment carried me onward.

Arrival in Fort William

Finally, I reached the end of the West Highland Way together with the German hiker. I ran into many familiar faces from the trail while exploring Fort William, sharing smiles and briefly chatting. It was a cozy, fitting conclusion to the West Highland Way – challenging, beautiful, and full of unexpected connections. Not as solo as I’d expected, but so much fun!

Day Eight total: ~24 km (15 miles)

Time: ~6 hours

Gear

• Hiking bag (I used 58L)
• Tent
• Sleeping bag (0 degrees)
• Sleeping pad
• Gas and stove
• Lighter
• Cutlery
• Water bottle(s)
• Base layers (for sleeping)
• Underwear
• Socks
• Long sleeve tops
• Fleece top
• Rain jacket
• Waterproof pants
• Insulated jacket
• Hiking pants
• Hat
• Beanie
• Buff
• Gloves (waterproof)
• Sunglasses
• Power bank
• Charging cables and adapter
• Toiletries
• Toothbrush
• First aid kit
• Blister pads
• Trekking poles (optional)
• Sleeping mask