Still Wandering

Rising like a great wall between South Africa and Lesotho, the Maloti-Drakensberg Park is a world of sharp ridges, hidden caves, and sweeping valleys that seem to hum with ancient energy. This vast mountain wilderness forms part of a trans-boundary UNESCO World Heritage Site, uniting South Africa’s uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park and Lesotho’s Sehlabathebe National Park.

Stretching for over 200 kilometres, the Maloti-Drakensberg escarpment is the highest range in southern Africa. Its dramatic cliffs and rolling grasslands are home to waterfalls, high-altitude wetlands, and rare plants and animals found nowhere else on Earth. But it’s not just a natural wonder, it’s also a living archive of human history. The San people, or Bushmen, lived and painted here for thousands of years, leaving behind one of the world’s richest collections of rock art.

In 2000, the area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for both its exceptional natural beauty and its cultural significance, a rare double recognition.

It’s a place where time moves differently: wind whistles through caves that have sheltered humans for millennia, vultures soar along ancient cliffs, and rivers carve stories into the stone. And that’s where our own adventure began, a four-day journey through wind, wild weather, and wonder, in the heart of the Southern Drakensberg. 🌿

Length

33.4km (20.8 miles)

• Day 1 – 11.2km (7 miles)
• Day 2 – 6.3km (3.9 miles)
• Day 3 – 7.5km (4.7 miles)
• Day 4 – 8.4km (5.2 miles)

Logistics

We started at the Silverstreams Caravan Park and booked and paid for the hike at the Bushmans Nek office next door. You can leave your car at the office.

Safety

We found it to be remote and challenging and relied on paper maps, a compass, and offline apps to navigate. We carried our own water, often collecting it from streams or the occasional tadpole-filled tarn. There were no marked trails, but cattle paths sometimes. With careful preparation it felt safe enough, as long as we kept an eye on the weather and stayed alert for the odd dog or wandering wildlife. Carrying a power bank to keep your phone charged is also advised. There is spotty cell service and it was useful to use to search for coordinates of specific caves.

Season

We hiked in late September with decent weather. There is no set hiking season, but mid winter may be a bit cold and snow could fall.

Day 1: Silverstreams Caravan Park to the Shepherd’s Cave

Our four-day Drakensberg mission began at Silverstreams Caravan Park, in the Southern Drakensberg near Underberg, KwaZulu-Natal. The morning brought wind, rain, and cold – not exactly the cheerful start we’d hoped for. We sorted our gear and food in the alcove of the kitchen area, questioning our enthusiasm for the day ahead.

After signing the Mountain Rescue register, we set off into the wilderness, keeping close to the Ngwangwane River before turning away and climbing higher toward the escarpment.

Our plan was to sleep in Tarn Cave, a massive and popular shelter, but when we reached it another hiking group had already settled in. We decided to search for Gargoyle Cave, a smaller, lesser-known spot nearby. After a mostly unsuccessful hunt – and a fair bit of muttering at our map, we stumbled upon a completely hidden shepherd’s cave tucked deep in a gully, with a strong water drip behind it (if anyone knows the cave’s name please let us know).

It wasn’t marked on any map, but it was sheltered and dry, probably a better option than Gargoyle anyway. The cave was tall enough for Lauren (my partner) to stand up in, though I had to shuffle around hunched over like an actual gargoyle.

From the depths of my bag, I produced a decanted bottle of wine. We sipped as the last light faded, cooking dinner on the Jetboil stove, listening to the soft patter of rain outside.

Day 2: Shepard’s Cave to Citadel Cave

We woke to calm, clear skies – the first real sign of luck. Our route followed the Lesotho border, linking up with a faint path that skirted the lower grassy slopes of three mighty 3000 m basalt peaks known as the Devil’s Knuckles (Baroa-ba-Baroa, “The Three Bushmen”).

Overhead, a huge flock of Cape Vultures wheeled in the air, and among them we spotted a few Bearded Vultures – massive, majestic, almost prehistoric. We stood in awe, necks craned and grins wide. These vultures are both endangered, largely to poisonings and habitat loss, so we were very privileged to witness them.

The walk was easier than expected, and by midday we reached The Citadel, our planned stop for the night. It’s aptly named – the ridge is guarded by towering sandstone overhangs that look like castle battlements. One of these, Citadel Cave, makes the perfect place to sleep, perched high above a steep valley below.

At the top, we found big potholes filled with water, known as tarns. They’d be our drinking source for the night, but after spotting a lively school of tadpoles paddling about, we decided to play it safe and sterilize the water with chlorine tablets. No tadpole-pee tea for us, thank you very much. 🐸

As the wind howled outside that night, we huddled deep in our sleeping bags and drifted off.

Day 3: Citadel Cave to Daniel’s Cave

In the morning, we were treated to a spectacular sunrise, first a dappled red glow, then a full-on orange blaze as the sun conquered the thin stratus clouds. A family of Grey Rhebok grazed across the slope, including three tiny babies bounding after their parents. Below, a Jackal Buzzard waited for warm updrafts to begin before spiraling skyward. A Rock Martin peeked out from its little nook in our cave, chirped once, and zipped off into the brightening sky.

We packed up and began the long, exposed traverse toward the saddle between Senotlolong Peak and the Devil’s Knuckles. The wind had returned – fiercer than ever. I could lean fully into it without falling.

We shuffled off the saddle, looking for shelter, and eventually reached Goat’s Cave – dusty, littered with animal droppings, and far from inviting. We decided to move on and aimed for Lammergeier Cave, our next planned stop.

The valley acted like a giant funnel, concentrating the wind directly into our faces. Gust after gust nearly sent us tumbling. By the time we reached Lammergeier cave, we were wrecked. The cave was enormous – around 100 m long and 20 m deep – but the wind howled straight into it, showing no sign of slowing down.

We had a quick lunch behind a Thermarest Z-Lite pad propped up like a makeshift wall with our backpacks, laughing at the absurdity of it all. Then, still being pummeled by gusts, we pushed on again toward a more sheltered valley.

The next ridge was brutal. Every few meters we had to crouch or kneel, clutching tufts of grass to stay upright. The wind showed no mercy, forcing its way down every slope and gully.

Finally, we descended into a steep, narrow valley and found Daniel’s Cave, nestled beautifully between two giant boulders. The moment we stepped inside, everything went quiet. Bliss.

We dropped our packs, and for the first time that day, exhaled. A few hours later, as the wind eased, we swam in the clear pools just a few steps from the cave entrance. It was cold, refreshing, and perfect.

Daniel’s Cave even had an upper level where another group could sleep, in addition to the main chamber, which could hold about twelve people comfortably. That night, we fell asleep to the gentle gurgle of the nearby stream – and I slept better than I had in weeks.

Daniel’s Cave

Day 4: Daniel’s Cave to Silverstreams Caravan Park

We woke to lower temperatures and grey skies. The forecast had promised snow – we were secretly excited – but, as we’d learned, weather predictions in this part of the Drakensberg are rarely reliable. It was just cold.

The walk back to Silverstreams Caravan Park was mild, mostly descending or flat terrain, crossing a few beautiful streams where tiny minnows darted between rocks and frogs hopped along the edges.

After a fairly uneventful final stretch, we reached Silverstreams Caravan Park once more. That night, it poured – buckets of rain hammering down on the tin roofs.

When we finally returned to Cape Town, we had sore legs, muddy clothes, and a bag of wet hiking gear, but also huge smiles and the kind of quiet satisfaction that only comes from a few hard, beautiful days in the mountains.

Gear

• Hiking bag (Lauren used 58L, Josh used 65L)
• Sleeping bag (7 degrees Celsius)
• Sleeping bag liner
• 2 Person tent
• Sleeping mat
• Water bottles
• Food for 4 days
• Underwear
• Socks
• Long sleeve tops
• Fleece top
• Rain jacket
• Waterproof pants
• Insulated jacket
• Hiking pants
• Hat
• Beanie
• Buff
• Gloves
• Sunglasses
• Power bank
• Charging cables
• Toiletries
• Small towel
• Toothbrush
• Sunscreen
• First aid kit
• Map
• Compass
• Water purification tablets