Still Wandering

Standing at the base of Kilimanjaro, we began our seven-day trek along the iconic Machame route, known as the “Whiskey Route.” Rising from 1,800 meters in the rainforest to the summit at 5,895 meters (Uhuru Peak), this route not only tests your endurance but immerses you in the diverse ecosystems and beauty of Africa’s highest mountain.

As a South African, it’s easy to overlook just how much of Africa there is to explore, often setting sights on far-off destinations while incredible experiences lie right on our doorstep. That’s part of what makes the idea of trekking up Mount Kilimanjaro so appealing, not just for the challenge itself, but for the chance to finally experience Tanzania and reconnect with the kind of adventure that feels both iconic and close to home.

Distance

62km (37 miles)

• Day 1 — 11km (7 miles) — Machame Gate → Machame Camp
• Day 2 — 4.6km (2.9 miles) — Machame Camp → Shira Camp
• Day 3 — 10km (6.2 miles) — Shira 2 Camp → Lava Tower → Barranco Camp
• Day 4 — 5.5km (3.5 miles) — Barranco Camp → Barranco Wall → Karanga Camp
• Day 5 — 3.5km (2.2 miles) — Karanga Camp → Barafu Camp
• Day 6 — 15km (9.3 miles) — Barafu Camp → Uhuru Peak → Millennium Camp (summit night)
• Day 7 — 12km (7.5 miles) — Millennium Camp → Mweka Gate

Logistics

I booked the trek via Dakik expeditions, and they took care of everything. I just had to book the flight to Arusha and show up with some gear that was recommended. There is also the possibility to hire gear in Arusha at a reasonable price.

You can’t just hire an independent guide on your own, you’re required to book through a licensed tour operator. These operators are registered with the Tanzania National Parks Authority, and they provide the full support team (guides, porters, permits, logistics) needed to legally and safely climb the mountain.

Safety

With the experienced team of guides and the large number of other trekkers, I always felt safe. We saw a few people being evacuated via helicopter due to medical issues or injuries and knowing that service was available was comforting.

Season

I hiked in September and the weather was great. There was no snow at the peak like I’d seen in some photos, but it was stunning nonetheless. We did walk through interesting ice formations to get there though.

Medical Insurance

As a South African with Discovery Medical Aid, I emailed them and topped up my travel insurance for the dates I would be hiking. This would ensure I was insured for hiking up to 6000m. Thankfully nothing went wrong, but I would have been rescued if something had.

First Ascent

The first recorded summit of Kilimanjaro was in 1889, when German geographer Hans Meyer reached Uhuru Peak with Austrian climber Ludwig Purtscheller and local guide Yohani Kinyala Lauwo. While Meyer is often credited in historical records, the success of the climb relied heavily on Lauwo’s knowledge of the mountain. Today, routes like Machame are well established, but they follow terrain that has long been known and navigated by the local Chaga people.

Day 1 – Machame Gate to Machame Camp

Day 1 started at Machame Gate, sitting at about 1,640 m above sea level. From there, the trail led straight into the rainforest, which caught me off guard. I’d pictured a dry, rocky climb, but instead, it was muddy, green, and full of life. The trail twisted over roots and wet leaves, and up in the trees, I spotted monkeys that looked a bit like skunks with their black-and-white fur. I had to slow down a few times just to watch them move through the branches—they were quick, but somehow you could still catch little glimpses of them.

The trek that day was roughly 11 km, climbing gradually through the forest before we reached our first campsite at Machame Camp at about 3,000 m. Along the way, I started noticing smaller things. Bright flowers poking through the moss, tiny details you might miss if you weren’t paying attention. One of them, the Impatiens kilimanjari, had pink-red petals curling into a tiny yellow “trunk,” like a miniature elephant staring back at me. It wasn’t anything dramatic, just a quiet little moment that reminded me Kilimanjaro isn’t just about the summit—it’s about noticing what’s around you while you get there.

Day 2 – Machame Camp to Shira Camp

Day 2 is where the mountain really starts to feel different. Not long after leaving camp and gaining a bit of height, we looked back and saw a sea of clouds stretching out below us, with the forest hidden underneath. It felt like we had already climbed out of one world into another.

We left the rainforest behind and climbed about 5 km up to Shira Camp at around 3,750 m, with close to 1,000 meters of elevation gain. The scenery changed quickly, from green and dense to open, rocky, and exposed. Some of the flora reminding my of fynbos from South Africa.

You could feel the altitude more with every step. Breathing got heavier, and without even thinking about it, my pace slowed. The guides were always saying “Pole pole”, which finally made sense with it meaning “Slowly slowly”. It is not something you force, it just happens. The trail had steeper, rockier sections, and ahead of us the Shira Plateau stretched out wide and quiet.

The landscape felt almost unreal. Volcanic rock underfoot, giant lobelia scattered around, and hardly any trees left. By the time we reached camp, it was colder and the air was thinner, just under 4,000 m. I felt tired but good, like my body was starting to adjust. That evening we got a really beautiful sunset over the plateau, and it made the whole day feel worth it.

Day 3 – Shira Camp to Barranco Camp

Day 3 is all about acclimatization. The idea is simple on paper, hike high and sleep low, but it feels very different when you’re actually doing it. We left Shira Camp and headed toward Barranco, covering around 10 km, but the real challenge was the altitude. The trail climbs up to about 4,600 m at Lava Tower before dropping back down to around 3,960 m to sleep.

The morning started out fairly calm, crossing the Shira Plateau with wide, open views. But as we got closer to Lava Tower, it started to feel more serious. The air was noticeably thinner, and every step took more effort. When we stopped for tea up there, I could really feel it. My hands were tingling, and I noticed my lips had gone a bit blue.

I was the only one in the group not taking Diamox. I wanted to see how my body would handle the altitude on its own, and it definitely had an effect. Still, I felt okay as we made our way down into the Barranco Valley.

It was only once we reached Barranco Camp that the headache hit. At first it was mild, but it quickly turned into this constant, pounding pressure that wouldn’t ease. The guide told me to give it some time, so I waited, but it only got worse. After about an hour, I spoke to him again and decided to take an ibuprofen. The relief came pretty quickly, and it was a bit of a reality check. Altitude isn’t something you can just push through. Sometimes your body needs help, and that’s okay.

By the evening, I was feeling worse again. Nauseous, with no real appetite, just trying to force food down between sips of the ginger tea they made for us, which honestly tasted amazing. I remember sitting there questioning my decision a little, wondering what I’d gotten myself into. That was also when I took my first Diamox.

By the end of the night, I was exhausted, a bit humbled, but still determined to keep going. Looking up at the Barranco Wall above camp, it felt like the next challenge was already waiting.

Day 4 – Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp

Day 4 started with the Barranco Wall, and I wasn’t in great shape. After the headache the day before, I’d taken a full Diamox that night instead of the half dose everyone else was on. I was still feeling rough that morning, a bit nauseous and just off overall.

When we started climbing, I felt really lightheaded. I thought it might be low blood sugar, so I spent most of the ascent eating sweets, just constantly having something to try feel normal again. The wall itself is about 300 meters of scrambling. It’s not technical, but you’re using your hands, moving over rock, and there are a few exposed sections. Doing that while lightheaded and chewing sweets the whole way wasn’t exactly ideal.

I could tell the views were incredible as we climbed, but I wasn’t really taking them in. I was just focused on getting through it and not feeling like I was going to pass out.

But once we reached the top, something shifted. I started to feel a lot better. The lightheadedness faded, and my energy came back. The Diamox seemed to be doing its job, and thankfully I didn’t have any side effects from it.

From there, the trail continued across ridges and small valleys toward Karanga Camp at around 3,995 m. It’s only about 5 km for the day, but it still felt like a proper effort. By the time we reached camp, I was tired but stable, and in a much better place than the day before.

That evening was a lot calmer. I finally felt more like myself again, and it gave me some confidence going into the next day. One more acclimatization day before the final push.

Day 5 – Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp

Day 5 is short, but it feels important. It’s only about 4 km from Karanga Camp up to Barafu Camp at around 4,673 m, but by this point nothing really feels easy anymore. We were woken up on a cold morning with a hot coffee from Frank, our waiter, which honestly made a big difference before setting off.

The trail climbs steadily through a barren, rocky landscape, and the higher you go, the more you feel it. The air is thin, every step takes effort, and you have to stay focused just to keep a steady pace.

We reached Barafu in the early afternoon, sitting just under 4,700 m. The camp felt exposed and harsh, nothing but rock and wind. The porters were already there when we arrived, which honestly never stopped amazing me. Tents were up, and lunch was ready.

After eating, we were sent straight to our tents to rest. I was completely exhausted, but actually sleeping was a different story. My body was tired, but my mind just wouldn’t switch off, and the altitude didn’t help either.

Later on, we got woken up for dinner and the pre-summit briefing. The guide checked our oxygen levels like he had been doing every day, and mine were still holding steady. No headache or tingling anymore, just that deep, heavy exhaustion.

The briefing made it all feel very real. We’d be leaving at midnight, temperatures dropping to somewhere between -10 and -15 degrees. Wear everything you have, every layer. Then it was back to the tent to try rest again.

Day 6 – Barafu Camp to Uhuru Peak to Millennium Camp

Day 6 is summit day, and it’s brutal.

We left Barafu Camp at midnight, headlamps cutting through the dark, with temperatures dropping to around -15 degrees. It was freezing. My Nalgene bottle turned solid, and even with two layers of gloves my fingertips were numb and painful. The cold just got through everything.

The climb felt endless. Steep, slow switchbacks on loose scree, one step at a time. The hiking poles helped a lot, just keeping some kind of rhythm and balance. The guides and summit porters were singing as we went, which somehow cut through the cold and exhaustion. Every now and then we’d stop briefly, and they’d hand out hot ginger tea. That honestly kept me going.

At one point I was so tired I just wanted to lie down and sleep, but you can’t. It’s too cold, too risky. You just have to keep moving.

By the time we reached Stella Point, it was daylight. We sat for a bit, catching our breath, before starting the final stretch. That last section to Uhuru Peak at 5,895 m felt like a massive relief with the most amazing views and ice formations.

At the top, we took a few photos and there was this real sense of accomplishment and joy. We were happy, properly happy, but at the same time completely exhausted. It’s a strange mix, like your body is finished but your mind is taking in what you’ve just done.

Not long after, one of our group got altitude sickness, and things shifted quickly. We had to descend fast. We made it back to Barafu Camp and stopped for tea, and honestly, the chefs and porters were incredible. The way they looked after us up there never stopped amazing me. It was my first guided hike, and being taken care of like that felt unusual, but on Kilimanjaro it really is just how things are done.

After that, we continued down toward Millennium Camp. The rest of the descent is a bit of a blur. I didn’t have much energy left for anything except putting one foot in front of the other, completely drained, just focused on getting down.

Day 7 – Millennium Camp to Mweka Gate

Day 7 is the final push. About 12 km from Millennium Camp at around 3,820 m down to Mweka Gate at 1,640 m, dropping back into thick forest.

You feel the descent straight away. After losing so much elevation the day before, my knees were already sore, and every step downhill just added to it. It’s that constant jarring feeling, and your toes start hitting the front of your boots with each step.

The landscape changes quickly again. The dry, barren alpine zone is gone, replaced by dense, humid forest. It feels alive in a completely different way, almost overwhelming after days above the tree line.

At one point around camp, we spotted an antelope. Apparently it’s not that common to see them there, and it felt strange seeing actual wildlife again after the emptiness higher up.

Along the way, we passed those stretcher trolleys the porters use to carry people down. They were empty, but just seeing them was a bit of a reality check. Later, a helicopter flew overhead on what looked like an evacuation. It makes you realize how quickly things can change up there, and how lucky you are to be walking down on your own.

The descent felt long. Not difficult in the same way as summit night, but just never-ending. Then eventually, through the trees, Mweka Gate appeared.

We signed out, and from there were driven to a restaurant where they held a small ceremony and handed out our summit certificates. Sitting there with proper food and that certificate in hand, it finally sank in. Seven days, 5,895 m, and back down safely. Completely exhausted, but just as satisfied.

Gear

Gear & Bags

• Hiking bag (32L)
• Duffle bag (for porters)

Clothing

• Underwear
• Thermal top & bottom (base layer)
• Long sleeve tops
• Fleece top
• Insulated jacket
• Rain jacket
• Hiking pants
• Waterproof pants
• Hiking socks
• Liner socks
• Gaiters
• Hat
• Beanie
• Buff
• Ski gloves
• Liner gloves

Equipment & Essentials

• Trekking poles
• Sleeping bag liner
• Water bottles / water bladder
• Sunglasses
• Power bank & charging cables

Personal Items

• Toiletries
• Small towel
• Toothbrush
• Sunscreen
• Sweets / snacks

Rented Items

• Sleeping bag (-10°C)
• Ski jacket
• Ski pants